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  • Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt

    Fashion under Fascism by Paulicelli, Eugenia;

    Beyond the Black Shirt

    Sorozatcím: Dress, Body, Culture;

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    A termék adatai:

    • Kiadás sorszáma 2
    • Kiadó Bloomsbury Visual Arts
    • Megjelenés dátuma 2025. február 20.
    • Kötetek száma Paperback

    • ISBN 9781350353350
    • Kötéstípus Puhakötés
    • Terjedelem oldal
    • Méret 232x156x22 mm
    • Súly 740 g
    • Nyelv angol
    • Illusztrációk 62 bw illus
    • 757

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    Hosszú leírás:

    Looking at the dark history of Italian fashion by focusing on the impact of 1930s Fascism, this is the second edition of Eugenia Paulicelli's classic text.

    In Fashion under Fascism, Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today. Alongside interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, this newly expanded revised edition includes updated material on gender and masculinity, the role of uniforms in standardizing individuality, race and colonial Italy, and the reception of 1930s cinema. It sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics and is an essential read for all those interested in the history of fashion, politics, national identity and the culture of fascism.

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    Tartalomjegyzék:

    List of Illustrations

    Acknowledgements

    Preface: Fashion/Fascism: Odd bedfellows?

    Chapter 1: Introduction: Fashion/Fascism

    Fashion and historiography

    Methodology. Thinking Fashion, Rhythm and Spatializing Time

    Object and Intersectionalities

    Beyond the Black Shirt: Continuity and Change

    La moda è una cosa seria. Fashion is a Serious Business

    Gianna Manzini and her Approach to Fashion

    Structure and Sources

    Chapter 2 Fashion/Fascism: Why and How it Matters

    Origins of Italian Fashion?

    Fashion and totalitarianism

    Uniforms and Fashion under Fascism

    "Read my Pins"

    Chapter 3 Per una moda italiana: From the Interwar Years to Fascism

    Imagining an Italian Style: Between Modernity and Tradition

    Regional Dress and Fashion during Fascism

    Rosa Genoni: Fashion and Feminism in 1910s

    Performing Dress and Gender: Futurist Avant-gardes between Nationalism and Revolution

    From Balla to Thayhat: Transgressing Gender and Genres in the New Language of Dress

    The Fascist "New Woman." Lydia De Liguoro and the Project for an Italian Fashion

    "An Italian Fashion does not exist yet. We must create it"

    Chapter 4 The Language of Fashion: Narratives, Style and Women's Voices under Fascism

    The Discourse on Fashion under the Fascist Regime: the 1936 Italian Commentary Dictionary of Fashion by Cesare Meano

    Restless Voices. Femininity, Motherhood and Gender in Women's Writing in the Fashion Magazine Bellezza

    Dress, Style and the National Brand: Meano's Commentary on Nationalism

    Sport, Gender and Models of Femininity in Meano's Commentary

    Chapter 5 Cinemoda and Cinelandia under Fascism

    The Istituto LUCE Fashion Film: Education, Entertainment, Propaganda

    Fashion, Film and the Politics of the Regime

    From Hollywood to France and then to Italy: Alta Moda in Alessandro Blasetti's Contessa di Parma (1937)

    Grandi Magazzini, Department Stores and Standardization

    Dressing the Mass Market: I Grandi Magazzini (1939) by Mario Camerini

    Chapter 6 Nationalizing the Fashion Industry?

    The Intelligent Fibers: Between Innovation and Autarchy

    Fashion and Fascism for Export: Race, Colonialism, Empire. From Ethiopia to New York

    Italy at War. Autarchic Textiles and Clothing at the 1941 Venice Exhibition

    Looking Back: The National Conference on "Clothing and Autarchy." Turin, June 1940. Italian Fashion between Alta Moda and Confezione (Ready to Wear)

    Chapter 7 Conclusions

    Fashion and Fascism after Fascism

    Interrogating the Past. Fashion between History and Memory:

    Appendices:

    Interview with Micol Fontana by Eugenia Paulicelli (June 2000)

    Gianna Manzini, "Fashion is a Serious Business"

    Alba De Céspedes, "Eve and the Feathers"

    Illustrations from the fashion magazine Bellezza

    Notes

    Bibliography

    Index

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