The American Look
Fashion, Sportswear and the Image of Women in 1930s and 1940s New York
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Product details:
- Publisher I.B. Tauris
- Date of Publication 1 December 2008
- Number of Volumes Paperback
- ISBN 9781860647635
- Binding Paperback
- No. of pages256 pages
- Size 234x156 mm
- Weight 390 g
- Language English
- Illustrations 77 b/w integrated 0
Categories
Short description:
From the end of the 1930s through the 1940s, the New York fashion industry came into its own. Sportswear, which had evolved from its sporting origins, was at the centre of this shift. This book presents a narrative and analysis of how New York sportswear evolved to become the definitive American style and how a modern fashion aesthetic was born.
MoreLong description:
From the end of the 1930s through the 1940s, the New York fashion industry came into its own. Sportswear, which had evolved from its sporting origins to include simple casual wear for town and country, travel and leisure, was at the centre of this shift. Sportswear provided busy career women, college girls and housewives with clothes that could be worn on all occasions.Drawing on a wonderful array of sources, from fashion magazines to department store records, this book is the rich and absorbing narrative and analysis of how New York sportswear evolved to become the definitive American style and how a modern fashion aesthetic was born. The story that unfolds reveals, with the aid of some wonderful illustrations, how New York's emergent style became dynamic and modern, like the city itself, expressive of the American ideal of athletic, long-limbed women; and how it tapped into both metropolitan Americanness and the America of wide-open spaces.It explores the designers, such as Claire McCardell, Clare Potter and Tina Leser, themselves embodiments of the modern, active woman, and how they gave middle class American women New York sportswear as an alternative to Parisian-inspired designs.
It looks for the first time at how its style connected not just to ideals of patriotism and democracy, but to current notions of cleanliness and hygiene, and for example, to 1930s theories of body image, and contemporary dance.
Table of Contents:
Contents 3
List of Illustrations4
Acknowledgements16
Introduction17
Chapter One: New York and the Evolution of Sportswear
New York City61
Sportswear84
Modern Sportswear Aesthetic I102
Chapter Two: American Body Culture
Body Image/Body Culture119
Health and Hygiene132
Exercise and Dance147
Sports Body164
Chapter Three: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry
During the Depression
Effects of the Depression189
Career Women207
Fashion Group226
Chapter Four: Sportswear's Promotion During the 1930s
New York Department Stores240
Fashion Media259
The Monastic Dress and the Sportswear Promotion in the late 1930s279
Chapter Five: Sportswear and the New York Fashion Industry
During the Second World War
Effects of the Second World War298
Sportswear Design and Representation222
Modern Sportswear Aesthetic II237
Chapter Six: The American Look and the Rise of the Designer
The American Look372
New York Sportswear Designers and Consumerism394
The Woman of Fashion 1947414
Conclusion431
Bibliography456
Index
