Bodice Engineering
Mastering the Inner Corselette
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Product details:
- Publisher Bloomsbury Publishing (UK)
- Date of Publication 9 July 2026
- ISBN 9781350537163
- Binding Paperback
- No. of pages224 pages
- Size 270x210 mm
- Language
- Illustrations 300 colour photos and 60 colour illus 700
Categories
Short description:
The inner corselette is one of the hallmarks of a couture gown. In this practical guide, Louise Johnson covers the key skills and techniques needed to sew this foundational garment and incorporate it into mini dresses, wedding gowns and jackets.
MoreLong description:
The inner corselette, one of the hallmarks of a couture gown, is considered a challenging project by many sewers. Detailed information on the process is hard to find and it's difficult to know where to start.
Bodice Engineering: Mastering the Inner Corselette offers a solution by introducing the fundamental techniques to design and sew an inner corselette, giving you the confidence to create this structural foundation garment with professional results. Divided into two sections, you'll find step-by-step instructions to equip you with the know-how to build an inner corselette, followed by an in-depth look at the construction of six garments, each designed to teach particular skills and inspire your creativity.
With over 360 photographs and illustrations, you'll find detailed information on every aspect of the process, including:
Designing an inner corselette using a commercial pattern
Refining the fit with a toile
Choosing fabrics, notions and boning
Constructing the corselette shell
Adding shape and structure with boning
Creating a strong and comfortable closure
Joining the inner corselette and the garment
Whether you are building an inner corselette for the first time or looking to refine your skills, this comprehensive guide is essential for any sewer wanting to create a beautifully engineered bodice.
Table of Contents:
Introduction
PART 1: BUILDING AN INNER CORSELETTE
1. Creating Shape: A Brief History
Corselettes and Dior's New Look
Inner Corselette Designs
Why Sew an Inner Corselette?
2. Selecting and Fitting the Pattern
Measuring for a Corselette
Selecting the Pattern
Selecting the Pattern Size
Understanding Ease
Determining Pattern Ease
Adjusting the Pattern
Adding a Centre Front Dart
3. The Toile
Constructing the Toile
Fitting the Toile
Assessing the Fit
Adjusting the Toile
Marking the Changes
4. Selecting Fabrics, Notions and Boning
Fabrics
Boning
Selecting your Boning
Tapes
Fasteners
5. Construction Overview
Prepare the Pattern
Prepare the Fabric Elements
General Construction Sequence
6. Creating the Shell
Single, Double or Lined?
Assembling a Lined Corselette
Assembling a Double Layer Woven Corselette
Assembling a Double Layer Bobbinet Corselette
Pressing
Sewing the Seams
Finishing the Seam Allowances
7. Installing the Boning
Boning Layout
Preparing the Boning
Installing the Boning
8. Edge Finishes
Stabilising the Upper Edge
Upper Edge Finishes
Finishing the Lower Edge
9. Adding the Fastening
Planning the Fastenings
Corselette Fastenings
Zippers
Hooks and Eyes
Concealing Hooks and Eyes
Waist Stays
Skirt and Petticoat Fastenings
Petticoat Fastenings
Skirt Fastenings
10. Joining the Inner Corselette and Garment
Machine Sewn to the Garment Upper Edge
Faced Method
Enclosed Seam Method
Hand Sewn to the Garment Body
Tiered Edges Method
Wrapped Edge Method
Floating Edge Method
PART 2: APPLYING THE TECHNIQUES
11. The Classic Mini Dress
Prepare the Patterns
Sew and Fit the Toiles
Construct the Inner Corselette
Sew the Dress
Join the Inner Corselette and Dress
12. The Lace Wedding Gown
Prepare the Patterns
Sew and Fit the Toiles
Construct the Inner Corselette
Sew the Gown
Join the Inner Corselette and Gown
Making a French Tack
13. The Sweetheart Bare-Shouldered Jacket
Prepare the Patterns
Sew and Fit the Toiles
Construct the Corselette
Sew the Jacket
Join the Corselette and Jacket
Complete the Jacket and Corselette
14. The Blush Tea-Length Gown
Prepare the Patterns
Sew and Fit the Toiles
Construct the Corselette and Petticoat
Sew the Gown
Join the Corselette and Gown
15. The Floral Evening Gown
Create and Fit the Strapless Design
Prepare the Patterns
Sew and Fit the Toiles
Construct the Corselette
Sew the Gown
Join the Corselette and Gown
Bust Enhancers
16. The Lilac Cocktail Gown
Prepare the Patterns
Modify the Patterns for the Gown Design
Sew and Fit the Toiles
Construct the Corselette
Sew the Gown
Join the Corselette and Dress
Glossary
Bibliography and Further Reading
Resources
Index
